The Geographical Indications Committee (GIC) has decided not to make a final determination of Wilyabrup as a Geographical Indication (GI).
A GI identifies a product that originates from a specific region where a particular quality of a product is a trait of that geographic origin.
For Wilyabrup to be eligible as its own GI it needs to have a grape growing area that produces at least 500 tonnes of grape per year and include at least five wine grape vineyards of at least five hectares each (that do not have common ownership).
An application for Wilyabrup to be identified as its own GI was submitted by a group of five winemakers in November 2017.
GIC presiding member Dennis Mutton said the decision not to make a final determination was influenced by the fact that there was still no agreement on the exact boundaries or attributes of the proposed Wilyabrup region.
Mr Mutton said that the Margaret River Wine Association had commissioned the 'Margaret River Region Project' - to map the entire region of Margaret River to potentially identify discrete viticultural areas within that GI that may meet the criteria for determination as separate GIs.
Mr Mutton noted producers in the Wilyabrup area could continue to label their wines with Wilyabrup (with or without the GI Margaret River) provided such a claim was not misleading as to the origin of the wine.
"There is a collective effort underway in the region by way of the Margaret River Region Project that ought to be considered prior to a final determination being made," he said.
"It is likely that the report will be relevant in considering the criteria set out under section 57 of the regulations."
Cullen Wines winemaker Vanya Cullen said the decision not to give Wilyabrup its own GI lacked courage and vision in not acknowledging and honouring the means or place that the grapes and wine came from.
"All Margaret River wine growers know the big difference in harvest dates, fruit flavours and wine from the various subregions of Margaret River as you travel from cape to cape. Harvest windows can vary up to a month," she said.
"We have been studying this since Dr John Gladstones (who is the reason Margaret River was planted with grapes in the first place) made his proposed subregional map in 1999.
"The question is why did the Margaret River wine industry oppose it?"
The Margaret River Wine Association (MRWA) board issued a statement which said they held a unified belief that the region was not yet in a position to scientifically validate where, or to what extent, uniqueness or uniformity occurs within its Geographical Indication.
"Currently, MRWA is working on a study to evaluate the links between landscape, meso climates, soil types and variations within wine produced in the Margaret River GI, particular in relation to the region's signature varieties, Cabernet Sauvignon and Chardonnay," the statement said.
"To date, the project has been assisted by the Department of Primary Industries and Regional Development, CSIRO, soil scientists, climate analysts, academics and experienced viticulturists and winemakers.
"The study will also include trained panel sensory analysis to identify areas which are distinct in climate or soil characteristics that could set them apart from the remainder of the Margaret River region."
