Relaxed, funky & classy: de'sendent is fine dining reimagined | The Pickled Pixie

As I dared to venture down the main street, I spied snippets of bustling energy from behind sleek, darkened doors. The scent of a firey grill was all the enticement I needed to slip inside.

de'sendent owners Evan Hayter and Ann Spencer's newest arena for culinary expression is all curved lines, dark timbers, and elegance presented in perfectly hushed earthen tones that wrap around you.

You feel as though you entered an exquisitely private open-plan abode, where the kitchen meets the dining room with the ease and flow of sublime architecture.

Luckily, I had my shiny skirts on, as this restaurant wants you to feel luxurious, yet it's relaxed, cosy and cool.

This is special.

Margaret River's recent addition to the burgeoning restaurant scene is an intimate continuum of the Arimia story. It is a clever progression of the farm-to-table fame of their beloved Estate restaurant that closed its kitchen in 2023.

de'sendent's doors are now open, delivering a completely fresh and different tangent to the Arimia tale.

For Evan and Ann, it's always been about the produce first.

"All that we did at Arimia was challenging and enlightening. People were drawn to our restaurant because of the concern for quality, ethically sourced produce, and the reality of caring for the environment from which it came," Ann said.

Joining forces with Evan, a renowned chef, in 2013 to deliver simple, sustainable meals to their patrons was the beginning of a new world for this produce-loving chef.

Evan's cooking journey started in Perth before heading to Europe, where his appreciation and love affair with quality ingredients began. Evan worked in the mecca for forging and pristine produce at a Michelin 2-starred restaurant in the Netherlands before landing a dream job that I'm sure would turn Rick Stein green with envy-cheffing on a luxury river barge for six months in France. However, it wasn't until his time at Arimia that the concept of how produce is the foundation of creation really sunk in.

"When you start growing your own ingredients, you value it more and waste less. I worked closely with a biodynamic grower in Margaret River who truly showed me the meaning of respecting produce. It is something quite extraordinary," he said.

"I began to experience flavours that I never knew existed! I remember one season, the carrots were so sweet that I couldn't help but create a dish that was just carrots in many different ways. That was probably the one stand-alone moment that made me look at food differently."

With the perfect muse, creativity is certain-enter the de'sendent chapter.

"I believe that my approach to food is quite different," Evan said. "Produce plays the biggest role in all of our creations on the menu. If you start with something exceptional, then the rest of the dish comes together; certain ingredients go best with one another, while others can be processed in multiple ways that need little enhancement from other flavours.

"We heavily focus on using our local fisherman and growers when sourcing our ingredients, and by simply doing this, you ensure that you only receive the freshest seasonal produce."

This restaurant has a purpose-to gift the region with a space to enjoy an evening with friends in an environment that allows you to feel at home with a fine dining flair.

"The driving force was to bring a level of dining to Margaret River that the town deserves," Evan said.

"We have very talented people in this region that create some very special dining experiences; we wanted to take that further and offer a higher-end dining experience in a sophisticated and intimate space."

With purpose comes passion, and this greets you in so many ways once you enter de'sendent -the main street simply melts away, and your experience begins.

This place is all about the beguiling beauty of juxtapositions laced together to make the seemingly impossible seem possible.

It's fine dining, relaxed, funky, and classy, and this is precisely what these two do so well: making incredible food accessible in an environment without borders.

"We wanted to make this concept more accessible to everyone and continue the growth of awareness about where we get our food. The Southwest region has many quality producers, from the land and the sea," Ann said.

The no-borders theme makes this intimate 35-seat capacity space appear like one exclusive dinner party. The large island-style kitchen bench offers front-row seats to watch the ninja-like chefs in action (Pixie tip: these will be box office and occupied quickly!).

To pull up a pew, enjoy a glass of something beautiful, snack on something divine, and watch these masters at work- makes for a fantastic time indeed. I am sure the maitre'd was a fellow of the faerie folk. She was so light and bright on her feet, flitting here and there quicker than I could unfold my wings (which is fast) -ensuring the magic flowed from table to table with a smile that just made you happy.

Laughter escapes from the kitchen (even at peak service), as do the chefs' relaxed smiles as they wield their weapons, plate with precision, and run food to tables-a stark contrast to the chaotic, under-the-pump sweltering ideal of a top-notch kitchen.

"I love the concept we are working with. All the chefs run food and explain the dishes; it's really nice to have that connection with the guest, and when you think about it-it makes sense," Evan said.

And it does. You could tell these craftsmen love what they do.

Can a place be serene yet lively and full of spirit? Yes, at de'sendent, it can.

Opposites exist in an equilibrium of balance, where one concept co-exists with the other quite easily; multicultural influences, with a proudly regional Australian core, are represented in design, delivery, and flavour.

What was once farm-to-table with Arimia is now fresh ocean, land, and garden-tochic, snappy plates with an edge of cool.

Dishes at de'sendent respectfully showcase ingredients with the thought and tenor of someone who knows food, loves it, and wants to share it.

"The availability of under-utilised ingredients grown on our doorstep is why I do what I do. I could go on all day about how good cooking in this region is; it's that simple."

At de'sendent, ingredients shine like a southwestern sunset- a natural reflection of time, place and season. The menu has so much to say: where to start...

Trust the chef, or choose your own adventure with la carte-either way, you'll be as happy as bees in a honey bath.

Sharing is caring, or solo savouring is also just as acceptable.

But you do not want to miss out on the scallops and oysters. Served as a revered treasure from the sea. This one is worthy of breaking it down:

Juicy scallops, faultlessly flame-seared, with a light caress of effervescent foam and curry leaf oil, glisten like a precious pearl. A morsel that teetered on a tightrope of delicacy and intensity with a profound skill of balance. It is worth the risk of being sprung to completely wipe that shell clean of any trace of deliciousness with a quick whip of a finger. You'll want to order another round.

The freshly shucked oysters were as creamy as moonlight, served with a subtle, skilled punctuation of mignonette that uplifted and accentuated the oyster, taking it from dreamy to otherworldly. What a dainty darling this one was-a perfect example of letting the produce speak with their own voice.

Paired with a chilled glass of Austrian 2021 Hirsch, Gruner Veltliner, you'll already have an experience worth remembering, and you're only at the beginning of the journey. The Wagyu, Lardo, and Cabbage bite is a textural treat of velvety tartare that disperses like whipped butter atop a crispy nest of crunch- a spirited hawker of what's to come.

The Spent Bread Crisps, dressed in pimento and roasted macadamia, is a little expression of pure joy before strolling onto the larger plates.

Here, you'll discover beetroot baked in salt, celeriac, herbed emulsion, pickled onion, and nutty scatterings of puffed rice. It's all layers of earthy wonder with a clever, fresh pop on the side. Or opt for pure opulence in the poached mussels swimming in a golden sea of buttery saffron-steeped risotto. The king cut of Wagyu, its flesh seared with a skilled laval lashing from the grill, is a gift for meat lovers.

Parting is such sweet sorrow, but to end your evening with a de'sendent dessert is no sad ending. Evan and his team's ability to create an exquisite equilibrium of sweet, salty, sour, bitter and umami on one plate doesn't stop at the desserts. The fluffy and fancy Doughnut, with gooey chocolate custard, is decadence and elegance dusted in Geraldton wax sugar, while the Torched Lemon Cake, with its crispy casing partnered with a glossy quenelle of olive oil and bay ice cream, tells you just how well sweet and savoury play together.

And by now, my dear friends, you know this Pixie has a penchant for good wine, and the wine list here had me hovering above my seat. It's an intelligent gathering of labels from around the globe. Experience gorgeous unsung white varietal heroes such as Roussanne from Victoria, Aligoté from Burgundy, and Albario from Spain, alongside the bold and beautiful reds with a Nebbiolo from Italy, Pinot Noir from France, and Tempranillo from WA. And this is only the tip of the grapevine that awaits you.

Is wine not your thing? You'll be more than merry with the quality sake, beers, cocktails and mocktails on offer.

Your experience matters to Evan, Ann, and the team. It's about memory, connection, family, friends, and having fun. Although the food is seriously good, it's about the light-hearted side of life, with a little punch of punk.

It's all in the name.

"The name Arimia came from my two daughters, Mia and Ariann. That personal connection has been a lovely factor in that story. Evan and I have been working together for over ten years, and this new venture was always going to have a very personal connection for him," Ann said.

de'sendent follows Evan's family connection, this time in a beautiful flow of evolution.

"Descendent can mean many things. It can be used when speaking of family, or the next incarnation of something, and it's the name of my favourite straight-edge punk band," Evan said.

"Apostrophes in restaurant names drive me a little crazy, as do the misspelling of words, so I thought it was a good way of not taking myself too seriously by using the phonetic spelling of the word."

The restaurant's branding perfectly expresses this in its quirky, chirpy, squiggle-like logo that makes you just want to giggle. It's ingenious because it's also abstract with an edge, just like their restaurant.

And the best part? It means something.

"The character is the biggest part of the story. It's an image drawn by my late brother. He was a huge part of my life growing up, and I have always wanted a way to celebrate who he was. He was awesome."

This story is personal, and it's got a whole lot to share. Evan and Ann's next incarnation of creation may have only just begun, but with an opening as riveting as this, you're in for an adventure. This restaurant is an open-plan stage-designed for experience and... for just you.

"We live in a beautiful corner of the planet. We are lucky to live in a wine region that has earned high regard worldwide. We have several quality vineyard restaurants. There is so much to love.

"Our place is not only for our much-loved locals but also our interstate and international guests. We have the opportunity to showcase the produce from this state and region, and we aim to tell that story respectfully."

Whether you're after a cosy feast for two, a gathering of mates with a fabulous spread of food, a hankering for a pre-party, or a late-night snack, de'sendent delivers with funky finesse and a lot of soul.

I'll see you there, my foodies!

Have fun. Discover. Live.

P.P