June brings us into a time of slower growth for most plants as soil cools and we get some very much needed winter rain. Turn off your retic and clean out your gutters if you haven't already.
Create a free account to read this article
$0/
(min cost $0)
or signup to continue reading
It is a time for gardeners to plant dormant deciduous variety fruit trees, like stone fruit, and ornamentals, like deciduous varieties of Magnolias that flower in later winter.
Stake your trees at planting before the root system develops.
You may also like to prune your trees, cutting away long, spiny, leggy water shoots (for example those seen on some citrus - cut away any bad infestations of citrus leaf minor at the same time), dead and diseased wood, any branches that overlap, and also some of the crown or middle of your trees to allow good light and air circulation into the denser growth areas.
Be sure to check how your trees produce fruit - some produce on new green growth but others require second year growth.
Make sure you're not cutting off your fruiting branches! A quick google search on the variety you planted will tell you.
And if you're unsure on exactly what it is you bought, try downloading a plant identification app and see if that helps. It's always wise to keep all plant tags and information at time of purchase.
We think we'll remember but inevitably we don't. The same applies to raspberries - if they are a summer fruiter they fruit on two year old canes while autumn fruit on the current season's growth.
Feeding your soil results in a highly diverse soil microbiome - an essential part of any healthy ecosystem.
Don't forget to fertilise.
It may seem odd to fertilise when some plants are moving into sleep mode but many are not.
You're helping soil microbes and contributing to the overall fertility of your soil.
A little fertiliser, several times a year, rather than a lot once or twice, is the suggested regime for all fertilisers.
I fertilise once every season, and more in the strong growth periods of spring and early summer.
And I mix it up, pelletised manures for my vegie patch, water soluble for fast growers, slow release granulated for my indoors, and foliar sprays for any plants showing trace element deficiencies.
But by far the best fertiliser system targets the health of the soil, rather than the plant itself.
Try a seasonal green manure crop four times a year.
Feeding your soil results in a highly diverse soil microbiome - an essential part of any healthy ecosystem, and one that is crucial to plant health and therefore capacity to fight pests and diseases.
Try to feed your soil rather than your plants per se.
I've seen advice that suggests not to mulch in winter but I continue to do it.
Obviously, apply at a lower thickness, for example 3 to 5cm rather than 7 to 10cm, as we want that precious rain to permeate into the ground.
I always use soft mulches that continue to decompose and protect soil and microbes from wind and water erosion, flooding, frosts, and weeds.
What to plant in June?
There's a huge number of options available. Time to pop in artichokes, that have a beautiful, sculptural flower along with being edible. Beetroot. Dill. Asian greens. Radishes. Broad beans. Leeks. Potatoes. Strawberries. Snow peas.
And of course the tried and tested Silverbeet and Rainbow Chard for shady spots.
We're going for a second planting of the faster brassicas in the school garden, planting the smaller variety mini green cabbages, purple cabbages, purple cauli, and broccoli.
Happy gardening. And remember to enjoy the rain - collect and store it where and when you can.
Let's hope we get some decent falls over the next few months.
Terri Sharpe is Coordinator and Garden Specialist of the Margaret River PS Kitchen Garden Program and a Horticultural lecturer at South Regional TAFE, Margaret River.
